You lot can say thank you but no cheers, stick to the schedule as outlined in the Warranty and Maintenance Guide. Read it, bring information technology along when you go in. That said, the funny affair is, I recollect that price is virtually right, for what's in the booklet: this is the get-go in-depth brake inspection interval. Did they even mention a full brake inspection? If not, if it was simply a flurry of flushes and treatments, it's might be time to try another dealership. An excerpt from the booklet:
The main things:
1. Remove engine underpanel completely and alter the engine oil and filter. Expect over steering linkage and drive shafts, look for whatever leaks.
two. Inspect engine and cabin air filters, replace if necessary.
iii. Remove the tires, pull off the restriction calipers, lube the caliper pins, check rotor runout and thickness (probable overkill if no pulsing noted), check pad thickness, clean the pads/shims, reassemble and install all. Road test. Do a final check of rear wheels for excessive drag (rear brake assembly is finicky, can be problematic if rear caliper piston misaligns).
4. Check the two coolant reservoir levels, peak upward if down to low marks.
Nobody should pay professional mechanics to do items 2 and 4; just check for yourself, relieve your money. And again, don't but slam in new filters at the interval, bank check them and replace only if necessary.
I'thousand at 76K kms with our 2010, take yet to replace either filter. I do bank check them periodically: the engine filter has just the slightest patina of soot, nevertheless almost-new.
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